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Beyond
Mt. Hartman......
As we pulled off the dock at Secret Harbour and headed out
through the bay towards Tara reef, past the lines of boats
at anchor showing the scars of their battle with Ivan, and
past the lines of boats on the rocks and beaches, many of
which would be not worth salvaging after a week of flooding
and pounding by the water, I decided I would 'make history'.
The only reason I wasn't here amongst these boats on September
7th was because I had been delayed, by a lethargic Customs
service, importing some parts for the boat down in Trinidad.
I deliberated that I would probably be the first person
in history to write a letter of thanks to the Trinidad and
Tobago Customs and Excise congratulating them on their thoroughness
(incompetence) and assistance (disinterest) in helping process
my consignment.(please note the pics attached depicting
the scene at the Customs shed at Port of Spain's Piarco
Airport where I spent a whole day tryin g to 'clear' two
packages........and failed!)......fine chaps, to a man,
not least because they'd been trained in 'the art' by the
British. And as a result, I was not in the wrong place at
the wrong time!
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And so it was round to the adjacent
anchorage of Hog Island, a short distance to the east. We'd
been given the name of a boat, by Nick in Secret Harbour,
with whom we could liase. We called them on VHF as we approached,
and let them know of our arrival. When we connected, it
seemed bizzare that there was hardly a feeling that anything
out of the ordinary had happened here. The boat we met was
undamaged, as were most of the boats in the anchorage! Had
they had a hurricane here! Those who know the place please
excuse me when I say that I've always felt that Hog Island
had the reputation of being the down-market end of the yachtie
world. But this time they got lucky. One ketch on the beach
of the small isand, and the infamous bar, venue for many
a debauched party, and only a few feet from the water, almost
unscathed....... .
.apart from the loss of the coconut palm roofing out front.......easily
replaced!
There had been a couple of other boats thrown up into the
mangroves, but they had already been recovered.
I must admit that I felt slightly uncmfortable handing over
the supplies to people who didn't appear to need it. I took
some time to cruise the anchorage to look for people I knew.
Surprised, I came across Dick, an Aussie I knew from St.Maarten,
singlehanding on his boat. I asked him how it had been,
and he looked at me and said "well, that's my sixth
hurricane and it wasn't the worst!" My thoughts were,
'how can you be so crap at watching the weather that you
end up going through six hurricanes!
'.........but he is Australian! I moved on to look for Suzie,
a British girl on her boat 'Gypsy', who's well known for
her Celtic fiddle playing.
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I knew she'd not be far away.
I find the boat, but there's no sign of a dingy indicating
'someone at home'.
I call her name anyway, and eventu a lly she appears at
the companionway, bleary-eyed........after a storm you need
to sleep!........but for a week! I ask her how she is and
eveything's 'cool'. "How did it go, you know, through
the hurricane and all?" "Well", she replied,
"it was going great, I was holding well, and then I
looked out at one point and out of the mist and spray there
was this trimaran flying through the air like a 747.........took
out the mast and all the rig!........but everything's cool!
I told her I had a 'special delivery' from Trinidad with
her name on it. She replied that she'd be leaving in a day
or two and didn't really need anything.
'Then give it to somebody else' I said, my responsibility
is to make sure you get the parcel........what you do with
it is your business!
On to see if South African Gary a long time aquiantance
of mine is home on a nearby boat. Negative!
Not around. But for sure, Gary, who I've named 'The Grim
Reaper", has better things to be do ing than sitting
on his boat after a golden opportunity like this!! Where
would we be without the South Africans?............a lot
better off, for sure!
Meanwhile, Andy and KC took a dingy ride round to Clarkes
Court Bay, to see what's happened to the marina there. We
had heard that it wasn't good. They had been asked to check
on an American woman known as Mo. They returned , reporting
that they had found Mo, that she'd been decidely unfriendly,
and that she didn't want anyone to know that she was OK!
OK? And the marina? Well, Mo's boat was still attached to
the marina dock........but the dock wasn't attached to anything
else! In fact. the whole marina had been destroyed, and
the docks had drifted apart. |
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So much for 'a secure and protected
place to leave your boat in the water when you travel, EVEN
IN THE HURRICANE SEASON'. When I visited Mo a couple of days
later, carrying an overlooked letter from a friend in Trinidad,
she kissed me, and thanked me for returning with the letter.
I asked her if she was hoping to get her boat up and running
again once the insurance assessor had been around.
Standing on the dock at 45 degrees, she said "darling,
go have a look inside". As I did this she said "
I'm so happy I have such a nice cockpit, because I'm living
in it now!"..........inside the boat, the water was up
the table level in the salon. It was clearly uninhabitable........and
so, on to St.Davids harbour..... |
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